Foam and Insulation Tulsa | Measure Up

When insulating our home, office or industrial building, you can choose from many types of insulation. To determine the best type of insulation for your application, you should first determine the following:

Where do you want/or need to install/add the Foam and Insulation Tulsa?

The maximum thermal performance or R-value of insulation is very dependent on proper installation. Homeowners can install some types of insulation – most notably, blankets. A liquid spray foam insulation can be installed, but it requires a professional installer.
To evaluate blanket installation, you can measure the batt thickness and check for gaps between batts as well as between batts and framing. In addition, inspect insulation for a tight fit around building components that penetrate the insulation, such as electrical boxes. To evauate sprayed or blown-in types of insulation, measure the depth of the insulation and check for gaps in coverage.
Always follow manufacturer’s instructions and safety precautions. Check local building Foam and Insulation Tulsa and fire codes before installation.

Types of Insulation
DescriptionMaterial ApplicationLocation
Blanket: batts/rollsMineral WoodUnfinished WallsFit between studs/joists
Plastic/Natural Fibers
Spray FoamPolyurethaneOpen new wallsApply with pressure spray
Enclosed existing Foam and Insulation Tulsa
Loose-fillCelluloseUnfinished WallsAdditional insulation to
AndFiberglassNew constructionexisting finished areas.
Blown-inMineral woodAttic floors


Fiberglass Batt Insulation Characteristics
The following is for Foam and Insulation Tulsa comparison of fiberglass batts only.

Thickness (inches)R-valueCost (cents/sqft)
3 ½1112-16
3 5/81315-20
3 ½ (high density)1534-40
6 to 6 ¼1927-34
5 ¼ (high density)2133-39

Batts and rolls are available in widths suited to standard spacing of wall studs, attic trusses or rafters and floor joists.
2in x 4in walls can hold R-13 or R-15 batts.
2in x 6in walls can use R-19 or R-21 products.
Continuous rolls can be hand-cut and trimmed to fit. They are available with or without facings. Foam and Insulation Tulsa Facing is either: kraft paper, foil-kraft paper or vinyl.
This facing acts as a vapor barrier and/or air barrier.

Loose –Fill and Blown-in Insulation

Loose-Fill insulation consists of small particles of fiber, foam, or other materials. These small particles form an insulation material that can conform to any space without disturbing structures or finishes. This ability to conform makes loos-fill insulation well suited for retrofits and locations where it would be difficult to install other types of insulation.
The most common types of materials used for loose-fill insulation include cellulose, fiberglass and mineral (rock or slag) wood. All of these materials are produced using recycled waste materials. Cellulose is primarily made from recycled newsprint. Most fiberglass products contain 40% to 60% recycled glass. Mineral wood is usually produced from 75% post-industrial recycled content.

In residential homes, loose-fill insulation can be installed in either enclosed cavities (walls) or open spaces (attics). Loose-fill insulation is typically blown in by an experienced installer. Polystyrene beads, vermiculite and perlite are typically poured.

Spray Foam Insulation

Spray Foam Insulation can be blown into walls, Foam and Insulation Tulsa on attic surfaces or under floors to insulate and reduce air leakage. Spray Foam Insulation will yield a higher R-value that the traditional batt insulation for the same thickness and create an effective air barrier.
The two types of foam-in-place insulation are: closed-cell and open-cell. Both are typically made with polyurethane.

Closed-cell foam high-density cells are closed and filled with a gas that helps the foam expand to fill the spaces around it. Closed-cell foam has a greater R-value and provides stronger resistance against moisture and air leakage, the material is also much denser.

Open-cell foam cells are not as dense and are filled with air, which gives the insulation a spongy texture. The open-cell foam is lighter and should not be used below ground level where it could absorb water.

Air Sealing Your Home

Reducing the amount of air that leaks in and out of your home is a cost-effective way to cut heating and cooling costs, improve durability, increase comfort, and create a healthier indoor environment. Caulking and weatherstripping are two simple and effective air-sealing techniques that offer quick returns on investment, often one year or less. Caulk is generally used for cracks and openings between stationary house components such as around door and window frames, and weatherstripping is used to seal components that move, such as doors and operable windows.


Air leakage occurs when outside air enters and conditioned air leaves your house uncontrollably through cracks and openings. It is unwise to rely on air leakage for ventilation. During cold or windy weather, too much air may enter the house. When it’s warmer and less windy, not enough air may enter, which can result in poor indoor air quality. Air leakage also contributes to moisture problems that can affect occupants’ health and the structure’s durability. An added benefit is that sealing cracks and openings reduces drafts and cold spots, improving comfort.

The recommended strategy is to reduce air leakage as much as possible and to provide controlled ventilation as needed. Before air sealing, you should first:

Detect air leaks

Assess your ventilation needs for indoor air quality.

You can then apply air sealing techniques and materials, including caulk and weatherstripping. If you are planning an extensive remodel of your home that will include some construction, review some of the techniques used for air sealing in new home construction and consider a home energy audit to identify all the ways your home wastes energy and money.


Test you home for air tightness.

Caulk and weatherstrip doors and windows that leak air.

Caulk and seal air leaks where plumbing, ducting, or electrical wiring comes through walls, floors, ceilings and soffits over cabinets.

Install foam gaskets behind outlet and switch plates on walls.

Inspect dirty spots in your insulation for air leaks and mold. Seal leaks with low-expansion spray foam made for this purpose and install house flashing if needed.

Look for dirty spots on your ceiling paint and carpet, which may indicate air leaks at interior wall/ceiling joints and wall/floor joists, and caulk them.

Cover single-pane windows with storm windows or replace them with more efficient double-pane low-emissivity windows.

Use foam sealant on larger gaps around windows, baseboards, and other places where air may leak out.

Cover your kitchen exhaust fan to stop air leaks when not in use.

Check your dryer vent to be sure it is not blocked. This Foam and Insulation Tulsa will save energy and may prevent a fire.

Replace door bottoms and thresholds with ones that have pliable sealing gaskets.

Keep the fireplace flue damper tightly closed when not in use Foam and Insulation Tulsa

Seal air leaks around fireplace chimneys, furnaces, and gas-fired water heater vents with fire-resistant materials such as sheet metal or sheetrock and furnace cement caulk.

Fireplace flues are made from metal and over time repeated heating and cooling can cause the metal to warp or break, creating a channel for air loss. To seal our flue when not in use, consider an inflatable chimney balloon. Inflatable chimney balloons fit beneath your fireplace flue when not in use, are made from durable plastic, and can be removed easily and reused hundreds of times. If you forget to remove the balloon before making a fire, the balloon will automatically deflate within seconds of coming into contact with heat. A reasonably capable do-it-yourselfer can create an inexpensive, reusable fireplace flue plug by filling a plastic trash bag with fiberglass batt scraps and jamming it into the flue. Attach a durable cord with a tag that hands down into the fireplace to (1) remind you the flue is blocked and (2) provide an easy plug removal method.

Note: Air sealing alone doesn’t eliminate the need for proper insulation to reduce heat flow through the building envelope.